Month: August 2023
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As many of my surfing stories start, it was dark as I loaded my board into my car. Dark because to reach the waves at sunrise, I must be prepared in the dark. There is likely a principle in that as well, but I will skip it for now. I reached one of my favorite…
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You have to lean a lot harder than you think to turn a surfboard, and in different ways. The more extreme the turn, the more extreme the lean and instability you are going to create. The amount of lean, direction, and placement will change from surfboard to surfboard, and from wave to wave. Keeping balance…
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It was a stunning north shore morning. The waves were coming through in clean, predictable sets, powerful and brilliant. Looking down on Haleiwa from the road as I drove to my spot, I was getting excited even in the falselight of a barely risen sun. Despite it being Hawaii, the air was cool and…
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Walking through Denver International Airport is like an homage to all the places I have lived and been. B28 Honolulu – where I live for now. B20 San Diego – where I was only a week ago for Comic Con, and a month or so before that for work. B24 LA – a passthrough on…
