Category: Sanctified Surfing
A Guide for Christian Kooks, the New Believers in a Strange, Beautiful New World.
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Arch your back in a banana shape, paddle smoothly, straight forward. Hold your hands just so. Don’t rock side to side. Use your body weight. Position correctly on the board, not too far forward or back. Paddle, paddle, paddle. See the wave, turn, paddle, paddle, paddle. Catch the wave, paddle, paddle, stand. Ride for some…
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A silly idea is current that good people do not know what temptation means. This is an obvious lie. Only those who try to resist temptation know how strong it is…You find out the strength of a wind by trying to walk against it, not by lying down. A man who gives in to temptation…
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I recently returned from almost a month’s worth of traveling around the globe – a little Asia, some US Midwest, some island hopping, and a bit of the East Coast. Getting back to Oahu, one of the very first things I did was throw my 8-foot foamie in my car and head to the waves.…
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It was Waikiki in September. We parked in a hotel parking structure and carried our big Costco foamboards under our arms and walked the downtown streets with bare feet toward the ocean. It was warm and beautiful, and I was nervous, but surfing was what I had always wanted to do. We paddled out from…
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It was five o clock by the time I finished at the car dealership. I waited more than three hours and basically was told they couldn’t fix my problem. Shrug. At that time in Hawaii though, trying to drive from Kakaako to Ewa Beach is a nightmarish bumper-to-bumper parking lot, so I decided to check…
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I have wanted to surf since I first watched Johnny Tsunami as a kid. The film released 24 July 1999, less than a week after my 9th birthday, and just after a rather traumatic move from Colorado Springs to Hurley, SD – a tiny farming town nestled in what my nine-year old mind thought was…
