July 9, 2023

Arch your back in a banana shape, paddle smoothly, straight forward. Hold your hands just so. Don’t rock side to side. Use your body weight. Position correctly on the board, not too far forward or back. Paddle, paddle, paddle. See the wave, turn, paddle, paddle, paddle. Catch the wave, paddle, paddle, stand. Ride for some…

June 18, 2023

It was Waikiki in September. We parked in a hotel parking structure and carried our big Costco foamboards under our arms and walked the downtown streets with bare feet toward the ocean. It was warm and beautiful, and I was nervous, but surfing was what I had always wanted to do. We paddled out from…