Tag: #storytelling
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North Shore Hawaii, 5 January 2024 I walked out to the point, across a section of rocks that would let me avoid a large portion of the paddle out. The waves on the horizon looked manageable, and I was excited to try to rip on my short board (emphasis on try). I waited for a…
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2023 in Review I started this blog during a short trip to Colorado this summer in the prayer that perhaps some day I would be able to expand it. In the last six months I have produced 61 posts totaling almost 95,000 words across many musings, thoughts, stories, and heartaches. That is, to me, immense.…
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As many of my surfing stories start, it was dark as I loaded my board into my car. Dark because to reach the waves at sunrise, I must be prepared in the dark. There is likely a principle in that as well, but I will skip it for now. I reached one of my favorite…
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It was a beautiful new year morning on the North Shore. I got to the beach early, hoping to start this new year at sunrise with the waves. I had my longboard ready and paddled out from Pua’ena Point into the break. It was a beautiful day of smooth waves, though nothing huge. I made…
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I recently returned from almost a month’s worth of traveling around the globe – a little Asia, some US Midwest, some island hopping, and a bit of the East Coast. Getting back to Oahu, one of the very first things I did was throw my 8-foot foamie in my car and head to the waves.…
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It was five o clock by the time I finished at the car dealership. I waited more than three hours and basically was told they couldn’t fix my problem. Shrug. At that time in Hawaii though, trying to drive from Kakaako to Ewa Beach is a nightmarish bumper-to-bumper parking lot, so I decided to check…